Motorcycle taxi driver Richard Okiror has seen the devastating cost of AIDS firsthand. He has watched people wasting away and dying from a virus that infected nearly one-fifth of all adults in his country. His own parents died of AIDS in the 1990s when he was a teenager, leaving him an orphan.

Yet today, in an era of life-saving medicine, he notices that his friends are less worried by the virus. Some of them, he says, are even paying extra money to prostitutes for sex without a condom.

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