A year ago arrivals on the outskirts to Kano had to pass a sign
forbidding alcohol consumption and banning women from riding on
motorbikes. Now it is gone.
Kano may be the sixth-biggest Muslim city in the world—after Karachi,
Jakarta, Dhaka, Cairo and Istanbul—but it is far from the most
conservative. Women lift their hemlines to get on the back of achabas,
motorbikes that are the main source of transport. Mini vans carry both
sexes to their destination. It is possible to get a cold beer to wash
away sand inhaled during a day on the edge of the Sahara.
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